Lubbock Foundation Problems: Soil, Drought and What to Do

If you are searching for Lubbock foundation problems and soil answers, the short version is this: houses here sit on ground that changes volume with moisture, the region swings between long dry spells and sudden heavy rain, and a foundation is only as stable as the soil under and around it. This page explains the general mechanics of expansive soil in Lubbock and the South Plains, what makes it worse, what homeowners can do, and when to bring in a professional. It is general education, not a diagnosis of your house.

What the soil around Lubbock is like

Lubbock sits on the Southern High Plains, a flat plateau. USDA soil series descriptions for the area, such as the Lubbock series (named for the city), describe a silt loam or silty clay loam surface over a clay-rich subsoil, with a layer of accumulated calcium carbonate below that. The Pullman series, which is mapped widely across the Southern High Plains, is described by USDA as fine-textured, with roughly 35 to 50 percent clay in its subsoil and "vertic" properties, meaning it shrinks and swells enough to crack when dry. The Amarillo series, also mapped in Lubbock County, has a somewhat lighter sandy clay loam to clay loam subsoil.

Two practical points follow. First, clay content is the main driver of shrink-swell: clay particles take on water and expand, then contract as they dry. Second, these soils are not uniform. Which series sits under your lot, how deep the clay is, and whether the lot was filled or regraded during construction all vary. To see what is mapped on your own property, use the free USDA NRCS Web Soil Survey; for a precise answer on a specific house, a geotechnical or engineer's report is the real source.

Caliche

Caliche is the local name for soil layers cemented with calcium carbonate. In the Pullman series, USDA describes carbonate accumulation beginning at roughly 20 to 30 inches and a calcic horizon commonly at 30 to 60 inches. Caliche matters for foundations in two ways: it can slow water movement and so affect drainage, and it can be hard to drill through when piers are installed. It does not make a foundation move by itself.

Wet, dry and the climate swing

NWS Lubbock lists the 1991 to 2020 normal precipitation at the airport at about 18.33 inches a year. A normal is only an average. The same NWS records show 2011 as the driest year on record, at 5.86 inches, and 2020 at 11.55 inches. When the ground dries over months, clay shrinks and can pull away from the foundation edge. A single heavy storm then dumps water onto dry, cracked ground, which can wet one side of the house faster than the other.

The movement that hurts is usually uneven: one side of the house drier or wetter than another, not the whole lot changing evenly. That is why the factors below matter.

What makes movement worse

• Poor grading. Ground that slopes toward the house, or a flat bed with dirt piled against siding, holds water at the foundation. Flat terrain here makes drainage easy to overlook. Soil should generally fall away from the house.
• Gutters and downspouts. Without them, roof runoff soaks the soil along the walls. Downspouts that empty right at the foundation concentrate it. Extensions that carry water several feet away are a common, inexpensive fix.
• Irrigation. Sprinkler heads that spray the foundation, or a system that runs on one side only, create uneven moisture. Water that is turned off for the season on one side of the yard can be as much of a problem as water that runs constantly.
• Trees and large shrubs. Roots pull moisture from clay soil, drying it unevenly near the house. Impact depends on species, size, and distance.
• Plumbing leaks. A slow leak in a supply or drain line under or near the slab can saturate the soil in one spot and cause localized settling or heave. Unexplained high water bills or damp spots are worth checking. Plumbing tests are often part of a proper foundation evaluation.
• Flower beds and bare soil. Beds that hold water against the wall, or bare ground that bakes and cracks, can both contribute.

Seasonal patterns

Many owners notice that doors stick or cracks open in one season and ease in another. Movement tends to show up after a long dry period and again after a wet spell, as the soil dries and rewets. Seasonal, reversible movement is common and often minor. Movement that keeps going in one direction year after year is a stronger sign of a real problem. For that reason, mark and date cracks and check them across seasons, as described in our guide to the signs of foundation problems.

Practical prevention

These are general steps many foundation professionals suggest; none replaces advice on your specific house.

• Keep moisture around the house as consistent as you reasonably can, without soaking it. In long dry spells some owners use a slow soaker hose or drip line set a few feet from the foundation. Follow local watering rules.
• Fix drainage first. Clean gutters, extend downspouts, and regrade low spots so water flows away. This is usually the cheapest improvement.
• Keep irrigation off the walls and even around the perimeter.
• Mind trees. Think about distance when planting. For mature trees close to the house, get advice before removing or keeping them. A root barrier installed by a qualified professional is one option for some situations.
• Check plumbing if you see unexplained moisture or water use.
• Pier and beam homes: keep the crawl space dry and vented as designed. See slab vs pier and beam repair.

Monitor, or call a professional?

Reasonable to monitor: hairline cracks that are not growing, a door that sticks only in some seasons, and small changes that reverse with the weather. Photograph with a ruler, date them, and check every few weeks.

Get an inspection: cracks wider than a coin's edge or still widening, several doors and windows binding at once, stair-step cracks in brick, visibly sloping floors, gaps between walls and ceiling, or movement after a plumbing leak or heavy rain. If you are selling or refinancing, a buyer or lender may also ask for a written report.

The role of a structural engineer

A licensed Texas professional engineer who is independent of any repair company can evaluate the cause of movement, measure floor elevations, and write a repair scope or say that no repair is needed. Because the engineer does not sell the work, many homeowners find the report useful for comparing bids. It typically costs money, so ask what is included. Texas has no state license specifically for foundation repair contractors, so an engineer's neutral opinion and careful vetting of companies matter more. See how to choose a foundation repair company, and typical foundation repair costs in Lubbock.

Questions to ask

• What do you think caused the movement: soil, drainage, plumbing, trees, or construction?
• Will the repair address that cause, or only lift the house?
• Do you recommend a plumbing leak test or drainage correction first?
• How will caliche or hard layers affect the work, if piers are used?
• Is a soil or geotechnical report needed?
• What is guaranteed, in writing, and is the warranty transferable to a buyer?
• Would you accept an independent engineer's findings?

We are a referral service, not a contractor and not an engineer. If you would like to be introduced to independent local companies for an inspection and written estimate, use the form on this page; there is no charge to you for the introduction.

Sources

• USDA NRCS Official Series Descriptions for the Pullman, Lubbock and Amarillo soil series.
• NWS Lubbock yearly climate normals (1991 to 2020) and NWS Lubbock year-end summaries.